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This method appears to date back to permaculture in the 1970's, and consists of two features that complement one another.
These can work separately or in conjunction to slow water and redirect it through landscape where it can reduce local temperatures and heat island effects, reduce pollution and erosion, all while reducing the chance and impact of flooding down stream. When water is slowed down and moved strategically across a property, that water feeds the soil slowly which sequesters water where roots can reach it, which reduces water needed for gardens and crops. Over time, these structures can also help water recharge ground water resources.
Swales are fairly shallow channels dug into the ground to capture and redirect rainwater, while berms are raised sections of ground which can be created using the excavated soil from the swales. By slowing water flow, swales not only prevent immediate run off and downhill flooding, but that extra time spent in one place allows that same water to instead begin seeping down into the ground and surrounding areas such as nearby flowerbeds.
Swales can be particularly useful in places experiencing droughts, heavy but less-frequent precipitation, and places where aquifers are unable to replenish quickly enough to overcome local ground water extraction.
Berms help prevent overflow from the swales both by blocking water flow that would otherwise become run off. In other words berms help reduce flooding, as well as run off which can contribute to soil loss and water pollution.
It is recommended that you incorporate biological materials into your berm, particularly if you are working with poor soil. For example if the soil excavated from the swales is heavy in sand or other materials that don't absorbe water, then you may want to start the berm off with materials such as wood (sticks or logs that are lying around the area), compost, or even leaves (check first to make sure the type of leaves don't act as natural herbicide such as pine needles or pecan or black walnut leaves), then add the excavated soil on top. You can actively mix the more nutritious elements as you go, create layers, or simply create a nutritious core with the less-nutritious soil added over the top and sides. Once finished with the basic shape, compost can help prevent erosion from rain or wind in the short term, but planting grasses or other plants directly into the berm will provide further stability as the roots weaver their way through the soil, and the foliage above will further prevent erosion.
In addition to preventing erosion via basic physics, plants that grow along a berm, help water permeate deeper into the soil and absorbe still more water for growth and expiration in the atmosphere.
Now that global warming has pushed our planet into a new era of wilder temperature swings, flash droughts, and heavier-than normal precipitation and storm events, our communities and farmland is struggling to adapt. Aquifers are running dry, soil nutrients are stripped away, homes are flooded, and increasingly often, even when people finally get some rain, the ground is often so hard and dry, that instead of absorbing the moisture, the water instead builds up into run off, creating dangerous floods.
In response communities are shifting to the sponge city model of managing water to help protect themselves from ground subsidence, water shortages, flood damage, and heat islands, they are increasingly choosing green solutions with multiple benefits.
Berms and swales can be a useful tool to include in a sustainable drainage network, helping to gently guide water along gentle slopes to retention ponds or larger scale drainage channels. They can be small scale, such as along a sidewalk or used to prevent flooding around a building's foundations, or larger scale, helping farmers or entire communities protect important areas, without shedding dangerous amounts of water quickly onto unsuspecting neighbors.
Berms can swales can be included in lawn monoculture, but the high and dry vs low and wet contrasting parts can also be planted with a wide variety of plants. The wider the variety, the higher the biodiversity, which means more support for important species such as pollinators. The increased amount of water introduced and stored in the soil by these features, can also support more plant life variety, without an increase of water usage (except perhaps during plant establishment or during extreme drought).
Start by evaluating what species the area already contains, remove any invasive species, and begin adding native alternatives to maximize ecological benefits.
On slopes under 3%, water will struggle to move, and can lead to soil becoming over-inundated with water. This can cause the ground to become soft and marshy. This might simply be inconvenient, harder to walk over, or making heavy equipment more likely to sink into mud.
If mosquitoes are an issue in your area, then make sure to plant tall native plants such as reeds that will attract dragonflies or other predators such as fireflies.
In addition to supporting predators who will naturally reduce your mosquito population, the plants themselves can reduce standing water in two ways. First the roots not only absorb water, but they dig down into the soil, and water (always following the path of least resistance and tending to move downward with gravity) then follows the roots down into the ground. The water absorbed by the roots, is also pulled up by the plant, and expired from the plants' stomata (tiny holes in their leaves) back into the atmosphere to become rain somewhere else.
Large trees nearby may suffer, or in heavy wind, can become more likely to loose their anchoring in the soil, and fall over. Some species of tree such as willows, don't mind "wet feet", but other species, especially drought tolerant trees may be at higher risk of dying from stress and root rot if the area remains too wet for too long.
Nearby buildings will be at higher risk of foundational damage. Generally swales should not be closer than 10ft or 3 meters.
On slopes above 15%, berms and swales may actually increase the risk of erosion. In fact steeper inclines can result in water rushing violently downhill, potentially causing far more damage that would have happened if no amendments were made to begin with.
Rainwater Harvesting: Berms and Swales (photos and diagram included)
Swale or Not to Swale (Warning: looks like AI art is used, proper swales should not look so close together or show so many gullies/erosion on the berms)
Should I Swale That? (Infographic)
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